Jan 21, 2011

“Last call…K...P...please find your way to gate xx”


Adventures do not always start out in grand flare.  Just after Thanksgiving I interviewed for my dream job with a Christian International Relief and Development organization. By Christmas, I had received and accepted the offer. I was headed back to Kenya - to live in Nairobi and travel throughout Africa supporting 7 country offices and numerous projects. I could not be more excited!!!
Leaving Minnesota was a lot harder than I anticipated. I was happy in that I had accomplished a small victory in making a home and trying the “normal” life. If I was having a hard time leaving, I must not have failed too miserably at it.  This new adventure began with a week and a half at headquarters in a beautiful little mountain town in North Carolina. Complete with winter blizzards and deep southern accents.  New friends were made quickly (who I am already missing); each of us boarding numerous planes to countries around the world. All going for the same mission, wrapped up in nerves and excitement, commissioned to our new assignments.
The start of my moving trip began with little sleep and a very rainy and foggy day to drive down the mountainside. Catching the first flight out gave me an opportunity to exercise my bargaining and bribing skills as I checked in but three minutes before cut off and said a quick prayer as my rental was parked illegally outside the doors. I entertained the security guys as I chugged my full water bottle and unloaded my oversized carry-on to walk through security. A brisk sprint down the corridor brought me to the first flight just as the doors were closing. The couple behind me was denied their seats as they too were late and the airline had already given their seats to standby. I was extremely lucky to be bumped to first class on that flight and therefore still have my seat. I landed in Detroit thinking I had several hours to conduct last minute business calls, postal mail, grab some lunch, and make my last stateside calls to friends and family. Nope. To my surprise, I hear my name being called over the loudspeaker. ”Last boarding call…K...P...please find your way to gate xx. We are now departing for Amsterdam.”
I ran.
The gate was already closed. I was out of breath by this point and some nice lady took pity on me opening the sealed door. I was on my way to Amsterdam. But I hadn’t grabbed lunch and I hadn’t made my phone calls. Here I go.
I arrived in Amsterdam at 6am. The sun was not yet shining. There is a section in the airport labeled “comfy chairs”. I found one and sat down. In my exhausted state I did not set an alarm. I figured I had five hours till my next flight.  Turns out I can’t do math when I am sleepy. Not five hours. Just three. I woke to a very bright sunny morning. It was a good thing I was wearing my running shoes! I almost missed my third and final flight. Now I realize I am sounding quite irresponsible at this point; but have I mentioned I also slept 15 of the 19 flight hours?
Nairobi welcomed me with a warm breeze, a full moon, and a giraffe slowly making its way across the highway. 
Oh, Africa. How I’ve missed you!

Apr 27, 2009

malaria walking

I figured out why all the Quelimanians walk so slow…they all have walking malaria! Or so is my theory. I unfortunately know a little about this as I’ve survived several bouts of malaria in this lovely little African town. I have since learned to recognize the signs of when the pesky little parasites start to make their way into my bloodstream and begin to multiply. There is first the sudden, random fever in the middle of the night, usually accompanied with a random earache or sore throat. By morning, it is gone. Almost as if you dreamt it. Then you begin to feel sleepy during the day and sleepy during the night. Sleepy all the time. You enjoy a good 10 hours of shuteye. The day the parasites have multiplied to show you a positive on a blood test is the day you are walking with malaria. You step outside into the bright bright sunshine that instead of making you smile, it makes you wince in pain. You step onto the street and suddenly every person on foot and every bicycle is making their way towards you with uncontrollable speed. Your ears begin to ring and you suddenly feel out of control. All sensors are down. All guards are down. You feel vulnerable and exposed. You try to speed up your pace to get to where you are going faster so that all this intense stimuli can stop…only…you find you cannot walk at your normal speed. And you slow down. And then you notice, you are now walking at the pace of every other local in Quelimane. You have malaria.

The encouraging news to dwell on is that you have medicine to treat it and you know that within four or five days all will be right again and you will be walking at your normal pace. The sun will no longer hurt but feel like a kiss on those early mornings and your awareness of all the crazy chaos in the streets will once again be filtered and you are able to carry on about your day in total awareness without it freaking you out.

I wish all Quelimanians had the privilege of this worry-free feeling of medication they know will work. Many do not. Many are lying in the hospital on cots right now. The majority keep walking with malaria as they do not want to be on the cot, or cannot afford to be on the cot. Homes don a malaria sick family member lying on a mat and unable to get well due to another contributing disease that will take their life, AIDS. I keep walking when I have malaria. I have to. I live in Quelimane.

Apr 20, 2009

"necrologia"

A necrologia, or obituary, pops into my inbox on a daily basis - an announcement that a colleague or a loved one of a colleague has passed away. Death is a daily reality for Mozambiquans. And it is something I have yet to grasp my mind around.

In light of the current national emergency of a cholera endemic, people are dying quickly. A local friend shared with me the number of students who passed away in her university class just last week – 5. The cholera treatment centers and hospitals are under-staffed and under-resourced. The infected populations are not able to access health care in time and without proper rehydration salts and antibiotics, they can die within 24 hours. This is an illness that is completely preventable and completely treatable – so why is it continuing to worsen? Why is the death rate continuing to rise? Our response is that the populations of communities here in Mozambique are so vulnerable to begin with; it is just another disaster to become victim to. Proper sanitation and clean water is only accessible to 50% of the Mozambiquan population. That translates to one of every two people in this country does not have access to clean water - half of an entire country population. Look at the person next to you – it would be them without clean water. Or worse, it could be you. It is unbelievable. Is clean water not a basic human need? None of us can live without it; yet thousands do every day. And then they die. This should not be happening. Clean hygiene and sanitation practices would quickly decrease the amount of cholera infected patients instantly; access to clean water would save the lives of hundreds who are currently dying from this preventative illness.

Cholera isn’t the only reason for death over here. The greatest cause by numbers is HIV/AIDS, followed my food insecurity, leading to malnutrition and starvation. The vulnerability of the communities increases the mortality rate of emergencies such as cholera and drought and floods. It increases the number of “necrologias” I receive on a daily basis. You can pray for the people of Mozambique.

“Here dies another day
During which I have had eyes, ears, hands
And the great world round me;
And with tomorrow begins another,
Why am I allowed two?”
-GK Chesterton.

Mar 26, 2009

give me your eyes

Looked down from a broken sky
Traced out by the city lights
My world from a mile high
Best seat in the house tonight
Touched down on the cold black tile
Hold on for the sudden stop
Breath in the familiar shock
Of confusion and chaos
Are those people going somewhere?
Why have I never cared?

Give me your eyes for just one second
Give me your eyes so I can see
Everything that I keep missing
Give me your love for humanity
Give me your arms for the broken hearted
The ones that are far beyond my reach
Give me your heart for the once forgotten
Give me your eyes so I can see

Step out on a busy street
See a girl and our eyes meet
Does her best to smile at me
To hide whats underneath
There’s a man just to her right
Black suit and a bright red tie
To ashamed to tell his wife
He’s out of work
He’s buying time
Are those people going somewhere?
Why have I never cared?

I’ve been there a million times
A couple of million eyes
Just moving past me by
I swear I never thought that I was wrong
Well I want a second glance
So give me a second chance
To see the way you see the people all alone

Give me your eyes for just one second
Give me your eyes so I can see
Everything that I keep missing
Give me your love for humanity
Give me your arms for the broken hearted
The ones that are far beyond my reach
Give me your heart for the once forgotten
Give me your eyes so I can see

Lyrics by: Brandon Heath

Mar 25, 2009

read this:

Mozambique is prone to a wide range of natural disasters, which regularly cause major damage and set back economic growth, especially in the disaster-affected areas. The country has a land surface of about 799,380 km² and a total population of 20.1 million inhabitants, of which 51.9 per cent are female. The population is dispersed over 11 provinces, 128 districts, 394 administrative posts, 1,072 localities and 10,025 villages. Natural and man-made disasters have long-lasting consequences due to the high level of vulnerability and poverty of the population. This has been is further exacerbated by the debilitating HIV pandemic, which national prevalence rate is 16% (CNCS, 2007). The malaria country prevalence rates in children vary from 40% to 90% but it represents 30% of hospital deaths. Under-five mortality rate is 152 per 1,000 live births and maternal mortality ratio is 1,000 per 100,000 live births. Chronic malnutrition reaches 45.7% of the under-5 children in rural areas, reflecting the shocking level of food insecurity.

Mar 24, 2009

welcome home

I returned to Quelimane tonight. As I was cleaning up my apartment I happened to glance out the back window at the most beautiful sunset...I'm back in Africa.

The states is a glorious place filled with family and friends and food and lots and lots of options to endless wants. However...Africa has breathtaking sunsets. And although my quick shot over the rooftops behind my flat can do little justice to the majesty...I wanted to share a little pic.